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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.